Visit Nepal
Bindhyabasini temple in the heart of the bazaar

Hills

Bandipur

On a ridge halfway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, an old Newar trading town left off the main road: a paved pedestrian street, brick houses with wooden balconies, and views of the Himalayas.

At a glance

Bandipur once prospered on the trade route between India and Tibet. When the main Kathmandu–Pokhara highway was built down in the valley in the 1970s, the town fell asleep, and that is what saved it: its main street has kept its 19th-century merchant houses, and it is now closed to cars.

Perched at about 1,000 m, the village looks out towards the Himalayas, from the Annapurnas to Manaslu. People come to wander, walk along the ridges, visit a large cave, and break up the long journey between Kathmandu and Pokhara. One night is the minimum; two let you go hiking.

No entry fee, no great monument: Bandipur is something to experience rather than to visit.

Don't miss

  • The main street in the evening, car-free, when the terraces light up.
  • Sunrise over the Himalayas from the hill of the Thani Mai temple.
  • Siddha Gufa, one of the largest caves in Nepal.
  • Walks to the surrounding Magar villages.

Less good

  • For one night, you have to get off the bus at Dumre and go up by jeep.
  • Not much to do if you don't walk.
  • Mountains often hidden from March to September.

In pictures

Bandipur on its ridge
The Himalaya from Bandipur at dawn

What to see

No entry fee for the village. Only Siddha Gufa cave charges.

The town

The bazaar and its houses

free

The main street and its brick houses with carved balconies and shutters, the Bindebasini temple on the square, the Tundikhel (the old parade ground at the end of town) with views over the valley and the mountains. Further on, the Khadga Devi temple, which houses a sacred sword.

Time
half a day of wandering

Open in Google Maps

Viewpoint

Thani Mai hill

free

A small temple at the top of the hill above the town, with Bandipur's finest view: the Himalayas on one side, the Marsyangdi valley on the other. A steep 30 to 40 min climb.

When
At sunrise or sunset

Open in Google Maps

Hike

Siddha Gufa cave

≈ 150 NPR (≈ €0.9) + guide

One of the largest caves in Nepal, with vast chambers of stalactites. Walk down from Bandipur (about 1 h 30, steep) with a local guide who provides the lamp, then climb back up or finish at Bimalnagar, on the main road, to catch a bus.

Time
half a day
Tip
Shoes with good grip: the cave is slippery.

Open in Google Maps

Hike

Ramkot and the Magar villages

A half-day walk along the ridge to Ramkot, a Magar village of round mud-and-thatch houses, with fine views. You meet few people.

Time
3 to 4 hours return

Open in Google Maps

Planning your visit

One night on the way

Leave Kathmandu in the morning, arrive in Bandipur in the early afternoon, wander and watch the sunset at the Tundikhel. Sunrise at Thani Mai, then on to Pokhara (2 h 30 to 3 hours).

Two nights

Add Siddha Gufa cave or the walk to Ramkot. That's the pace of Nepal in 10 days and Nepal in 2 weeks.

The other way round

From Pokhara, Bandipur is 2 h 30 to 3 hours away: a good stop on the way back to Kathmandu or on to Chitwan.

Getting there

Tourist bus to Dumre

Time 4 to 6 h from Kathmandu, ≈ 2 h from Pokhara

Take a Kathmandu–Pokhara bus and ask to get off at Dumre, at the foot of the hill (you usually pay the full fare).

Dumre → Bandipur

Time 30 to 40 minPrice ≈ 100 to 150 NPR (≈ €0.6 to €0.9)

Local bus or shared jeep up a winding road (8 km), or taxi. Hotels can arrange the transfer.

Car with driver

Time 5 to 6 h from Kathmandu

Convenient if there are several of you: you drive up to the car park at the entrance of the town.

Getting around locally

On foot

The town is pedestrian; everything is done on foot, including hikes to the neighbouring villages.

Where to stay

In the bazaar

Guesthouses and boutique hotels in the old merchant houses, often with a balcony over the street. Limited choice: book in high season and at weekends.

Around the town

A few lodges and resorts on the heights, with mountain views, quieter but a little out of the way.

When to come

J: bestF: bestM: bestA: bestM: possibleJ: possibleJ: possibleA: possibleS: possibleO: bestN: bestD: best

bestpossiblenot advised

As in Pokhara: the mountains are mostly visible from October to February, in the morning. In spring the weather is pleasant but haze veils the view. During the monsoon the Dumre road can be damaged by rain, and trails get slippery.

Festivals

Dashain and TiharOctober–November Families from Bandipur come back to the village; guesthouses are full.

Dates change every year.

Good to know

Money: one or two ATMs, sometimes empty. Arrive with rupees. Withdrawing cash: the fees of every Nepali bank are compared on ATM Fees.
Siddha Gufa: don't go down without a guide and a lamp; the walls and floor are slippery.

Comments

A question, recent information (prices, opening times, transport), your own experience? Share it here.

Loading comments…

Other destinations

Kathmandu ValleyKathmanduTemples, stupas and bazaars: the capital and its three great sacred sites.Time needed: 2–3 daysFrom Kathmandu: you're thereDiscoverKathmandu ValleyPatanThe city of Newar craftsmen, its royal square and its museum, the finest in the country.Time needed: 1 dayFrom Kathmandu: 20 to 30 minDiscoverKathmandu ValleyBhaktapurThe best-preserved royal city in the valley, almost car-free.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 45 min to 1 h 15DiscoverValley rimNagarkot and DhulikhelTwo Himalayan balconies for a sunrise, an hour from Kathmandu.Time needed: 1 dayFrom Kathmandu: 1 h 30 to 2 hoursDiscoverBelow the AnnapurnasPokharaPhewa Lake, the Annapurnas as a backdrop, and the gateway to the treks.Time needed: 2–4 daysFrom Kathmandu: 25 min by plane, 6 to 10 h by busDiscoverTeraiChitwan National ParkRhinos, crocodiles and sal forests, in the southern plains.Time needed: 2–3 daysFrom Kathmandu: 6 to 7 h by busDiscoverTeraiLumbiniThe birthplace of the Buddha and its monasteries from all over the world.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 35 min by plane (Bhairahawa)DiscoverFar eastIlamThe tea hills of the east, facing Kanchenjunga, off the beaten track.Time needed: 3–5 daysFrom Kathmandu: 45 min by plane + 3 to 4 h by roadDiscoverFar westBardia National ParkThe wildest park in the Terai, and the best chance of seeing a tiger.Time needed: 3–5 daysFrom Kathmandu: 50 min by plane + 2 h 30 to 3 h by roadDiscoverTerai (Mithila)JanakpurSita's city, its white marble temple and Mithila art.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 25 min by plane, 10 to 12 h by busDiscoverHills (Palpa)TansenA hillside Newar town between Pokhara and Lumbini.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 4 to 5 h from PokharaDiscoverKali Gandaki valleyMustang by jeepJomsom, Kagbeni, Muktinath and, beyond, the kingdom of Lo: the high-altitude desert without trekking.Time needed: 4–10 daysFrom Kathmandu: via Pokhara: 20 min by plane or 7 to 9 h by roadDiscover

Sample itineraries