Hills (Palpa)
Tansen
On the road from Pokhara to Lumbini, an old Newar town clinging to the slope, with its paved lanes, temples, dhaka weavers and, above it, a ridge facing the Himalayas.
- Region: Hills (Palpa)
- Time needed: 1–2 days
- Entry: free (sites: 120 to 150 NPR (≈ €0.7 to €0.9))
- From Kathmandu: 4 to 5 h from Pokhara
At a glance
Tansen, headquarters of Palpa district, was the capital of a small kingdom before the unification of Nepal. The town, at about 1,370 m, has kept its stepped lanes, Newar houses and temples, and a very local commercial life: it still produces dhaka, the woven cloth with geometric patterns used for Nepali topis (caps), and karuwa, bronze water jugs.
It's the ideal stop to break up the long journey between Pokhara and Lumbini: one night to wander the bazaar, watch the sun rise over the Himalayas from Shreenagar hill and, for walkers, go down to the Rani Mahal palace on the banks of the Kali Gandaki.
Few foreign travellers stop here: Tansen is like Bandipur, but livelier and less geared to tourists.
Don't miss
- Sunrise over the Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri from Shreenagar hill.
- The sloping bazaar, its dhaka workshops and Newar temples.
- Rani Mahal, a palace on the Kali Gandaki nicknamed “the Taj Mahal of Nepal”.
- An authentic stop, without the crowds.
Less good
- Very steep streets: good legs help.
- Simple accommodation, mostly homestays.
- Rani Mahal takes half a day to a full day.
In pictures
What to see
The town is free to explore. The Shreenagar tower and the Rani Mahal palace charge a small entry fee (foreigner price).
The town
The bazaar, the palace and the temples
free
Around the central square, the old governor's palace (Tansen Durbar), burned during the civil war and then rebuilt, houses a small museum. Further down, the Amar Narayan temple, a Newar pagoda surrounded by ponds, and the Bhagwati temple. In the lanes, dhaka shops and bronze-workers' workshops.
- Time
- half a day
Viewpoint
Shreenagar hill
≈ 120 NPR (≈ €0.7) (tower)
A pine-covered ridge just above the town (15 to 20 min climb), with a viewing tower. On a clear day, the Himalayan range, from Dhaulagiri to the Annapurnas, stands out above the valleys.
- When
- At sunrise, October to April
Excursion
Rani Mahal
≈ 150 NPR (≈ €0.9)
A European-style palace built in the late 19th century by a general of the Rana family in memory of his wife, at the bottom of the Kali Gandaki gorge. About 3 hours' walk down from Tansen (and 4 hours back up), or 30 min to 1 hour by vehicle on the track.
- Time
- half a day by vehicle, a full day on foot
Planning your visit
One night on the way
Arrive from Pokhara in the early afternoon, stroll through the bazaar and temples. Sunrise at Shreenagar, then drive on to Lumbini (about 3 hours).
Two nights
Add Rani Mahal: walk down in the morning and come back by vehicle, or go there and back by jeep.
As part of an itinerary
Tansen fits between Pokhara and Lumbini, as a variation of Nepal in 2 weeks: the 8-hour bus ride in one go becomes two stages.
Getting there
From Pokhara
Along the winding, beautiful Siddhartha Highway. Local buses and microbuses, or a car with driver.
From Lumbini or Butwal
Frequent buses from Butwal, the plains town at the foot of the hills.
From Kathmandu
Via Narayanghat and Butwal. Better to arrive from Pokhara or Lumbini.
Getting around locally
On foot
The town is explored on foot, along very steep streets. For Rani Mahal, arrange a taxi or jeep with your accommodation.
Where to stay
In town
A few simple hotels and above all homestays, often with dinner and breakfast: the best way to discover Palpa's cooking.
When to come
bestpossiblenot advised
From October to April the weather is dry and the mornings often clear for Himalayan views, with cool nights in winter. In spring, haze veils the mountains in the afternoon. During the monsoon, the Pokhara road can be cut by landslides.
Festivals
| Dashain and Tihar | October–November Family celebrations, oil lamps in the bazaar; buses are full. |
| Bhagwati Jatra | August–September The great procession of the Bhagwati temple through the town. |
Dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year.
Good to know
You get your visa on arrival, at Kathmandu airport or at the border: form, fees and pitfalls to avoid on our dedicated site.
Visa Nepal →Fancy a few days of walking? Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, Langtang… permits, guides, transport and day-by-day itineraries on our trekking site.
Trek Nepal →Comments
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