Valley rim
Nagarkot and Dhulikhel
On the ridges closing the Kathmandu Valley to the east, two villages from which, on a clear day, you can see the whole central Himalayan range: the best “mountain” night without trekking.
- Region: Valley rim
- Time needed: 1 day
- Entry: free
- From Kathmandu: 1 h 30 to 2 hours
At a glance
Nagarkot, at just over 2,000 m, is not a pretty village: it's a ridge covered in hotels. But people come for one thing only, and it's worth the trip: sunrise over the Himalayas, from the Manaslu and Ganesh Himal massifs in the west to the Everest region in the east (a tiny dot, on a very clear day), by way of the nearby Langtang.
Dhulikhel, lower (about 1,500 m) and further south-east on the road to Tibet, has a slightly narrower panorama but a genuine old Newar town, and it's the starting point of the lovely walk to Namo Buddha monastery.
One night is enough. The nicest option is to combine the night on the ridge with a walk the next day: from Nagarkot, you walk down to Changu Narayan and then Bhaktapur.
Don't miss
- The Himalayan range turning pink at sunrise, from your room or the viewing tower.
- The walk down from Nagarkot to Changu Narayan, through villages and terraces.
- Namo Buddha monastery, perched above the hills, reached from Dhulikhel.
- Calm and fresh air after Kathmandu.
Less good
- No guaranteed view: clouds and haze often hide it, especially from March to September.
- Nagarkot itself lacks charm; many hotels are ageing.
- Cold at night in winter, in rarely heated rooms.
In pictures
What to see
No entry fee in Nagarkot or Dhulikhel: only Changu Narayan (≈ 300 to 400 NPR (≈ €1.7 to €2.3)) and sometimes the monasteries ask for a contribution.
Nagarkot
The sunrise
free
Most hotels have a terrace facing the mountains. The viewing tower at the top of the ridge (about 1 hour on foot or 15 min by car from the centre) gives the clearest view. The show starts half an hour before sunrise.
- When
- Around 5:30 to 6:30 am depending on the season
- Tip
- Look at the sky the evening before: if it's overcast, the view probably will be too.
Hike
Nagarkot to Changu Narayan
About a dozen kilometres, mostly downhill, along ridge paths, through villages and terraced fields, to the temple of Changu Narayan, UNESCO-listed and often described as the oldest in Nepal. From there, taxi or bus to Bhaktapur, or another 2 hours on foot.
- Time
- 4 to 5 hours' walk
- Tip
- Set off after sunrise; ask your hotel for directions or take a local guide, there are no waymarks.
Dhulikhel
The old Newar town
Behind the main road, an old quarter of brick houses, small temples and ponds, with few tourists. The Kali temple viewpoint above the town offers sunrise over the mountains.
- Time
- 1 to 2 hours
Hike
Dhulikhel to Namo Buddha
About ten kilometres through the hills to Namo Buddha, a Buddhist pilgrimage site where, according to legend, a prince gave his body to a starving tigress. The large Tibetan monastery overlooking the site welcomes visitors in silence. Return by bus or taxi, or walk on to Panauti, another Newar town.
- Time
- 4 to 5 hours' walk
Planning your visit
One night in Nagarkot
Leave Bhaktapur in the afternoon (1 hour's drive), sunset from the hotel. Sunrise, breakfast, then walk down to Changu Narayan and Bhaktapur, or return by taxi.
One night in Dhulikhel
Arrive in the afternoon, old town at sunset. Sunrise at the Kali temple, then walk to Namo Buddha (4 to 5 hours) and return by taxi.
As part of an itinerary
Nagarkot fits easily after Bhaktapur, as in Nepal in 2 weeks. For a one-week trip without Pokhara, it's the best way to see the Himalayas.
Getting there
Taxi or car from Thamel
The easiest option, especially with luggage. From Bhaktapur, about 1 hour.
Local bus via Bhaktapur
Bus to Bhaktapur, then a local bus from Bhaktapur to Nagarkot (about 1 hour). Very cheap, slow and crowded.
Dhulikhel
On the Araniko highway (towards Tibet): frequent local buses from Ratna Park via Bhaktapur, or taxi.
Getting around locally
On foot
Everything is done on foot, along ridge paths. Bring good shoes and water for the hikes.
Where to stay
Nagarkot
Dozens of hotels and lodges along the ridge, from basic to resort. Choose a room with a mountain view, and check there are enough blankets in winter.
Dhulikhel
A few resorts with views on the heights, simpler hotels in town. Less choice than Nagarkot, but more authentic.
When to come
bestpossiblenot advised
From October to February you have the best chance of seeing the mountains, especially early in the morning; nights are cold, sometimes below freezing in December–January. In spring, haze often veils the view. From June to September, clouds hide the Himalayas almost every day: don't go for the view.
Festivals
| Dashain and Tihar | October–November Nagarkot's hotels fill up with Nepali families from Kathmandu on holiday. |
Book ahead during the big festivals and at weekends (Friday night and Saturday, the day off in Nepal).
Good to know
You get your visa on arrival, at Kathmandu airport or at the border: form, fees and pitfalls to avoid on our dedicated site.
Visa Nepal →Fancy a few days of walking? Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, Langtang… permits, guides, transport and day-by-day itineraries on our trekking site.
Trek Nepal →Comments
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