Far east
Ilam
In the far east of the country, against the Indian border, hills entirely covered in tea bushes, facing Kanchenjunga: the Nepal of Nepalis, which very few foreign travellers go to see.
- Region: Far east
- Time needed: 3–5 days
- Entry: free
- From Kathmandu: 45 min by plane + 3 to 4 h by road
At a glance
Ilam is to Nepal what Darjeeling, across the border, is to India: hill country between 1,200 and 2,000 m where tea bushes pruned into hedges form waves as far as the eye can see. The country's first tea garden was planted here in the 19th century, and Ilam tea is now exported all over the world.
You don't come for monuments, but to walk through the tea gardens early in the morning, watch the sun rise over Kanchenjunga (8,586 m, the world's third-highest peak) from Shree Antu, and enjoy a peaceful region where foreigners are rare. Nepalis, on the other hand, come here in numbers on holiday.
It's far: 45 minutes by plane to Bhadrapur then 3 to 4 hours by road, or a whole night by bus from Kathmandu. Allow at least three nights for the trip to be worth it. It's also a fine stop for those entering Nepal from the east, from Darjeeling or Siliguri.
Don't miss
- Sunrise over Kanchenjunga from the Shree Antu tower.
- The tea gardens of Kanyam, with their round, perfectly pruned hills.
- The sacred lake of Mai Pokhari, in the middle of the forest, a protected wetland.
- For walkers: Sandakpur (3,636 m), from where you can see four of the world's five highest peaks.
Less good
- Very far from the rest of the trip: flying is almost essential.
- Accommodation often basic; little English spoken outside hotels.
- Frequent fog, and the mountains only show themselves in clear weather.
In pictures
What to see
No entry fee in Ilam: the tea gardens and the lake are open to all, sometimes for a small local contribution. Respect the plantations, which are private property: walk on the paths, don't pick.
Ilam bazaar
Ilam tea garden
free
Just above the bazaar, the country's oldest tea garden, with paths between the rows of tea bushes and old drying sheds. A viewing tower overlooks the town and the plantations. In the bazaar, the small Maisthan temple and the tea shops.
- Time
- half a day
- When
- Early in the morning, with the pickers (mainly March to November)
1 hour from Ilam
Kanyam
free
Ilam's postcard landscape: hills entirely covered in tea bushes, at about 1,800 m, along the Fikkal road. Stroll among the rows, drink tea at the roadside stalls. Very busy with Nepalis at weekends.
- Time
- 2 to 3 hours
20 min from Kanyam
Shree Antu
free
A ridge above 2,000 m, against the Indian border, with a small lake and a viewing tower. At sunrise, on a clear day, Kanchenjunga and Kumbhakarna (Jannu) rise above a sea of clouds. Stay in a homestay or lodge to be there at dawn.
- When
- At sunrise, October to April
1 hour north of Ilam
Mai Pokhari
free
A nine-cornered sacred lake at about 2,100 m, surrounded by rhododendron and cryptomeria forests, a Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage site. Listed as a wetland of international importance (Ramsar site), it's a paradise for birds.
- Time
- half a day with the drive
Adventure · 3,636 m
Sandakpur
The region's highest point, on the Indian border (Sandakphu on the Indian side): a panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. Reached by jeep on a rough track from Ilam, then 2 h 30 to 3 hours on foot through rhododendrons, with a night in a lodge or homestay at the top. Arrange it locally with a guide.
- Time
- 2 days
Planning your visit
In 3 nights
Day 1: fly to Bhadrapur and drive to Ilam, tea garden at the end of the day. Day 2: Mai Pokhari in the morning, back to Ilam. Day 3: Kanyam, then a night at Shree Antu. Day 4: sunrise over Kanchenjunga, drive to Bhadrapur and fly back.
In 5 nights
Add Sandakpur (2 days with a night at the top), the finest panorama in eastern Nepal.
From India
From Darjeeling or Siliguri, you enter Nepal at the Kakarbhitta border post (visa on arrival, see Visa Nepal), then 2 h 30 to 3 hours by jeep to Ilam. The small Pashupatinagar post, closer, is in principle not open to foreign travellers: check before you go.
Getting there
Kathmandu → Bhadrapur by plane
Several flights a day, mostly in the morning (foreigner fare noted at Buddha Air for November 2026, 25 kg checked baggage). Then 3 to 4 hours by road to Ilam, by taxi, jeep or bus (≈ 500 to 800 NPR (≈ €3 to €5) by bus).
Night bus from Kathmandu
Long and tiring, across the Terai plain. Only for travellers with time to spare.
From the Indian border
Jeeps from Kakarbhitta, the border post open to foreigners, for those arriving from Darjeeling or Siliguri.
Getting around locally
Jeep or taxi
The sites are scattered along the ridges: a jeep with driver for the day (arranged by your hotel) is the most practical. Kanyam and Shree Antu are also served by local buses on the Fikkal road.
On foot
The tea gardens are explored on foot, along the paths between the rows.
Where to stay
Ilam bazaar
The widest choice: simple hotels and a few newer places, worth seeing before booking. ATMs and shops in the bazaar.
Kanyam and Shree Antu
Resorts among the tea gardens in Kanyam, homestays and lodges in Shree Antu for the sunrise. In high demand at weekends and during festivals.
When to come
bestpossiblenot advised
From October to April the weather is dry and the sky often clear in the morning: it's the season for views of Kanchenjunga, with cold nights on the ridges in December–January. In spring the rhododendrons bloom and the first tea harvest turns the hills a tender green.
From June to September, the monsoon brings fog, heavy rain, leeches and landslides that sometimes cut the roads: best avoided.
Festivals
| Dashain and Tihar | October–November Peak season for Nepali tourism in Kanyam and Shree Antu: book ahead. |
| Nepali New Year | mid-April Many families come up from the plains to the cool hills; accommodation full. |
Dates change every year.
Good to know
You get your visa on arrival, at Kathmandu airport or at the border: form, fees and pitfalls to avoid on our dedicated site.
Visa Nepal →Fancy a few days of walking? Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, Langtang… permits, guides, transport and day-by-day itineraries on our trekking site.
Trek Nepal →Comments
A question, recent information (prices, opening times, transport), your own experience? Share it here.
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