Kali Gandaki valley
Mustang by jeep
Behind the Annapurnas, the Kali Gandaki valley turns into a high-altitude desert of mud-brick villages and Tibetan monasteries. A road now lets you get there by jeep, as far as the Muktinath temple and even Lo Manthang.
- Region: Kali Gandaki valley
- Time needed: 4–10 days
- Entry: ACAP 3,000 NPR (≈ €17); Upper Mustang 50 USD (≈ €45) / day
- From Kathmandu: via Pokhara: 20 min by plane or 7 to 9 h by road
At a glance
Mustang is the old kingdom of Lo, a land of Tibetan culture tucked north of the Annapurnas, in their “rain shadow”: ochre cliffs, mineral valleys, villages of white houses with firewood stacked on the roofs, apple orchards and barley fields. Long reserved for walkers, it can now be reached by a motorable track from Pokhara.
Lower Mustang (Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni, Muktinath) only requires the ACAP permit: it's the most spectacular jeep trip in Nepal, up to the Muktinath temple (3,710 m), a holy place for both Hindus and Buddhists. Upper Mustang, beyond Kagbeni up to the walled city of Lo Manthang, is a restricted area: special permit (50 USD (≈ €45) per day since late 2025), licensed agency and guide compulsory, even by jeep.
Allow 4 to 5 days return from Pokhara for Lower Mustang, 7 to 10 days for Lo Manthang. Mind the altitude: you climb fast by vehicle, and Muktinath is above 3,700 m.
Don't miss
- The Kali Gandaki gorge, among the deepest in the world, between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas.
- Kagbeni, a mud-brick oasis village at the gateway to Upper Mustang.
- The Muktinath temple and its 108 fountains, at the foot of the Thorong La.
- Lo Manthang, a walled city of painted monasteries, for those who go on to Upper Mustang.
Less good
- Long, dusty track, sometimes cut; Jomsom flights often cancelled.
- Altitude: headaches are common at Muktinath if you climb too fast.
- Upper Mustang is expensive: daily permit, guide and agency.
In pictures
What to see
ACAP permit (3,000 NPR (≈ €17)) compulsory for all of Mustang; for Upper Mustang (north of Kagbeni), a restricted-area permit at 50 USD (≈ €45) per person per day, obtained through a licensed agency, with a licensed guide. Full permit details on Trek Nepal.
Lower Mustang · 2,720 m
Jomsom and Marpha
Jomsom, the district headquarters, with its airport and the wind that picks up every midday. Thirty minutes south, Marpha, a Thakali village of flagstone lanes and whitewashed houses, famous for its apples, its apple brandy and its monastery.
- Time
- half a day
Lower Mustang · 2,810 m
Kagbeni
A mud-brick village at the confluence of two rivers, dominated by a red monastery, looking out on the cliffs of Upper Mustang. This is where the restricted area begins: a sign and a checkpoint at the end of the village.
- Time
- half a day
Lower Mustang · 3,710 m
Muktinath
A shrine sacred to Hindus (Vishnu) and Buddhists alike: a temple surrounded by 108 fountains shaped like cows' heads, where pilgrims bathe in icy water, and a natural gas flame burning on water in a small nearby temple. The village of Ranipauwa, just below, has lodges.
- Time
- half a day
- Tip
- Spend a night in Jomsom or Marpha before going up.
Upper Mustang · 3,840 m
Lo Manthang
50 USD (≈ €45) / day (permit)
The old capital of the kingdom of Lo, surrounded by walls, with its monasteries and their restored murals and its royal palace. Reached by jeep from Jomsom (a long day) with a guide, and several days to see the caves and monasteries around.
- Time
- 3 to 5 days there
Planning your visit
Lower Mustang in 4 to 5 days
Day 1: Pokhara → Jomsom by jeep or bus (7 to 9 hours) or by plane (20 min), night in Jomsom or Marpha. Day 2: Kagbeni, then Muktinath (night in Ranipauwa). Day 3: Muktinath at dawn, down to Jomsom or Marpha. Day 4: back towards Pokhara, with a stop at the Tatopani hot springs.
Upper Mustang in 7 to 10 days
Same start, then two days by jeep from Jomsom to Lo Manthang with stops, two or three days there, and back. Permits, agency and guide to arrange before you leave.
On foot
For those who prefer walking: Lower Mustang can also be done on foot, at the end of the Annapurna Circuit. See Trek Nepal.
Getting there
Pokhara → Jomsom by plane
Morning flights only: in the afternoon, the Kali Gandaki wind makes flying impossible. Frequent cancellations, keep a spare day. Checked baggage allowance of about 10 kg.
Pokhara → Jomsom by road
Buses and shared jeeps every day, or a private jeep (the most comfortable, with stops). Long, bumpy track, sometimes cut during the monsoon.
Jomsom → Muktinath
Buses and shared jeeps several times a day, mostly in the morning.
Getting around locally
Jeep
Shared jeep between villages, or a private jeep with driver for the day from Jomsom. In Upper Mustang, the licensed guide also accompanies travellers by jeep.
On foot
The villages (Marpha, Kagbeni, Jharkot) are linked by pleasant trails, often away from the track.
Where to stay
Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni
Lodges and small hotels, comfortable for the region, with renowned Thakali cooking. Marpha and Kagbeni are the most charming.
Muktinath (Ranipauwa) and Lo Manthang
Simple lodges, cold at night: a down jacket or warm sleeping bag is useful outside summer.
When to come
bestpossiblenot advised
Sheltered by the Annapurnas, Mustang gets little rain: it can be visited from March to November, partly even during the monsoon (it's the road below Jomsom that causes problems, with landslides). From December to February it's very cold, some Upper Mustang lodges close and snow can cut the road.
Every day, a violent wind picks up in the valley in the late morning: bring sunglasses, a scarf and a windproof jacket.
Festivals
| Tiji | May Three days of masked monk dances in Lo Manthang to drive out demons: Upper Mustang's great festival, in high demand. |
| Yartung | August–September A horsemen's festival in Muktinath and the villages: horse races and dances. |
Dates follow the Tibetan calendar and change every year.
Good to know
You get your visa on arrival, at Kathmandu airport or at the border: form, fees and pitfalls to avoid on our dedicated site.
Visa Nepal →Fancy a few days of walking? Permits, guides, transport and day-by-day itineraries on our trekking site.
Treks that start from here: Upper Mustang, Annapurna Circuit.
Comments
A question, recent information (prices, opening times, transport), your own experience? Share it here.
Other destinations
Kathmandu ValleyKathmanduTemples, stupas and bazaars: the capital and its three great sacred sites.Time needed: 2–3 daysFrom Kathmandu: you're thereDiscover
Kathmandu ValleyPatanThe city of Newar craftsmen, its royal square and its museum, the finest in the country.Time needed: 1 dayFrom Kathmandu: 20 to 30 minDiscover
Kathmandu ValleyBhaktapurThe best-preserved royal city in the valley, almost car-free.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 45 min to 1 h 15Discover
Valley rimNagarkot and DhulikhelTwo Himalayan balconies for a sunrise, an hour from Kathmandu.Time needed: 1 dayFrom Kathmandu: 1 h 30 to 2 hoursDiscover
Below the AnnapurnasPokharaPhewa Lake, the Annapurnas as a backdrop, and the gateway to the treks.Time needed: 2–4 daysFrom Kathmandu: 25 min by plane, 6 to 10 h by busDiscover
TeraiChitwan National ParkRhinos, crocodiles and sal forests, in the southern plains.Time needed: 2–3 daysFrom Kathmandu: 6 to 7 h by busDiscover
TeraiLumbiniThe birthplace of the Buddha and its monasteries from all over the world.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 35 min by plane (Bhairahawa)Discover
HillsBandipurA car-free Newar hilltop town between Kathmandu and Pokhara.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 5 to 6 h by roadDiscover
Far eastIlamThe tea hills of the east, facing Kanchenjunga, off the beaten track.Time needed: 3–5 daysFrom Kathmandu: 45 min by plane + 3 to 4 h by roadDiscover
Far westBardia National ParkThe wildest park in the Terai, and the best chance of seeing a tiger.Time needed: 3–5 daysFrom Kathmandu: 50 min by plane + 2 h 30 to 3 h by roadDiscover
Terai (Mithila)JanakpurSita's city, its white marble temple and Mithila art.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 25 min by plane, 10 to 12 h by busDiscover
Hills (Palpa)TansenA hillside Newar town between Pokhara and Lumbini.Time needed: 1–2 daysFrom Kathmandu: 4 to 5 h from PokharaDiscover
Loading comments…