
Kathmandu Valley
Kathmandu
A noisy, dusty capital, but one with four World Heritage sites less than an hour apart.
- Region: Kathmandu Valley
- Time needed: 2–3 days
- Entry: 1,000 NPR (≈ €6) (Durbar Square)
- From Kathmandu: you're there
At a glance
Kathmandu is disorienting at first: traffic, horns, tangled electric wires, dust in the dry season. Then you turn a corner and find a small tiered temple where people have been laying flowers for centuries. That layering is what makes the city.
The valley has seven UNESCO-listed sites; four are in Kathmandu itself: the royal square (Durbar Square), the stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, and the temple of Pashupatinath. Two full days are enough to see them without rushing; a third lets you wander the bazaars and catch your breath before the rest of the trip.
Most travellers stay in Thamel, the tourist district: convenient but noisy. Patan (Patan) and Boudha are quieter alternatives.
Don't miss
- Walking round the Boudhanath stupa at the end of the day, among Tibetan pilgrims.
- The view over the whole valley from Swayambhunath, the “monkey temple”.
- The evening ceremony (aarti) on the banks of the Bagmati at Pashupatinath.
- The Asan and Indra Chowk bazaars, among spices, fabrics and small shrines.
Less good
- Heavy traffic and pollution, especially from December to April.
- Thamel is very touristy: touts and endless trekking shops.
- Each site charges separately: about 2,600 NPR (≈ €15) for all four.
In pictures
What to see
Entrance fees for a foreigner from outside South Asia (SAARC), checked in September 2026. Prices change often: the ticket counters show the current rate.
UNESCO · city centre
Durbar Square (Basantapur)
1,000 NPR (≈ €6)
The old royal square: Hanuman Dhoka palace, some fifty temples and the house of the Kumari, a young girl worshipped as a living goddess, who sometimes appears at the window of her courtyard (photos of her are forbidden). Many monuments were rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake; work on the palace continues.
- Time
- 2 hours to half a day
- Tip
- Keep your ticket: it is checked at several entrances and is valid for the day.
UNESCO · west
Swayambhunath
200 NPR (≈ €1.2)
The stupa with Buddha's eyes, on a hill west of the city, with the best view of the valley. It's called the monkey temple: there are plenty of them, so keep your bags closed and don't eat in front of them. The steep eastern stairway has over 300 steps; there is road access from the west.
- Time
- 1 h 30
- When
- Early morning, with the worshippers, or at sunset
UNESCO · east
Boudhanath
400 NPR (≈ €2)
One of the largest stupas in the world, heart of the Tibetan refugee community in Nepal. You walk round it clockwise (the kora), spinning the prayer wheels. The monasteries and rooftop cafés around the square are well worth a detour.
- Time
- 2 hours
- When
- Late afternoon: the crowd of pilgrims, then the butter lamps
UNESCO · east
Pashupatinath
1,000 NPR (≈ €6)
Nepal's holiest Shiva temple, on the banks of the Bagmati river. The main temple is for Hindus only; others see the courtyard from the entrance and watch the cremations on the ghats from the opposite bank. It is a place of mourning: no close-up photos of families, dress respectfully. The painted sadhus ask for money to be photographed.
- Time
- 1 h 30 to 2 hours
- When
- Late in the day for the aarti, the evening ceremony on the riverbank
Free · centre
Asan, Indra Chowk and the lanes
free
Between Thamel and Durbar Square, the city's old bazaars: spice and fabric markets, neighbourhood temples, courtyards (bahal) opening up behind a porch. The finest walk in Kathmandu, preferably in the morning.
- Time
- 1 h 30 to 2 hours, on foot
Planning your visit
In 2 days
Day 1: Swayambhunath early in the morning, then walk down to Durbar Square through the lanes; back to Thamel via Indra Chowk and Asan. Day 2: Pashupatinath in the late morning, then Boudhanath on foot (30 to 40 min) or by taxi, and stay around the stupa until evening.
With a 3rd day
Half a day in Patan, 20 minutes away, or a day in Bhaktapur, ideally with a night there.
For some calm
The Garden of Dreams, a neoclassical garden on the edge of Thamel (entry fee), for a break from the noise.
Getting there
Tribhuvan International Airport → Thamel
Fixed-price taxi counter in the arrivals hall, or a negotiated taxi outside. Many hotels offer transfers. You get your visa on arrival: see Visa Nepal.
Getting around locally
On foot
Thamel, Asan, Indra Chowk and Durbar Square are all walkable (20 min from Thamel to Durbar Square). Swayambhunath is a 30 to 40 min walk from Thamel.
Pathao and InDrive
Ride-hailing apps work in Kathmandu, by car or motorbike taxi, with the price shown upfront. The easiest option for Boudhanath and Pashupatinath, near the airport.
Taxis
Meters are almost never used: agree on the price before getting in. Expect a few hundred rupees for a ride across town.
Where to stay
Thamel
The travellers' district: the widest choice of hotels at every price, restaurants, agencies. Convenient, but noisy at night. Pick a side street.
Boudha
Around the stupa, guesthouses run by monasteries or Tibetan families. Quiet in the evening and magical early in the morning, but 30 min from the centre.
Patan (Lalitpur)
Across the Bagmati river: quieter, guesthouses in old Newar houses, good cafés in Jhamsikhel. See Patan.
When to come
bestpossiblenot advised
Kathmandu can be visited all year round. In October and November the sky is clear and you can sometimes see the peaks from Swayambhunath. From December to February the days are mild and sunny but nights are close to 0 °C (cheap hotels are poorly heated). From March to May it gets hot and a haze of pollution settles in.
From June to September, the monsoon mostly brings showers in the late afternoon and at night: the sites can still be visited, the mountains are hidden.
Festivals
| Indra Jatra | September Eight days of masked dances; the Kumari is paraded on her chariot around Durbar Square. |
| Dashain | September–October The country's biggest festival: many shops close, Nepalis go back to their villages, buses are full. |
| Tihar | October–November The festival of lights: oil lamps, marigold garlands, offerings to crows, dogs and cows. |
| Losar | February–March Tibetan New Year, above all at Boudhanath. |
| Holi | March The festival of colours, very lively in Thamel and Basantapur. |
Dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year.
Good to know
You get your visa on arrival, at Kathmandu airport or at the border: form, fees and pitfalls to avoid on our dedicated site.
Visa Nepal →Fancy a few days of walking? Permits, guides, transport and day-by-day itineraries on our trekking site.
Treks that start from here: Langtang Valley, Gosainkunda Lake, Manaslu Circuit, Tsum Valley, Numbur Cheese Circuit, Pikey Peak.
Comments
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