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Indreshwar Mahadev temple, in the heart of Panauti

Valley rim

Panauti

Thirty-two kilometres from Kathmandu, a small Newar town spared by mass tourism: one of the oldest pagoda temples in Nepal, a sacred confluence and brick lanes to explore on foot.

At a glance

Panauti grew up where the Roshi Khola meets the Punyamati, where tradition also places a third, invisible river. At the heart of the town, Indreshwar Mahadev temple, founded in 1294, is one of the oldest pagoda temples in Nepal.

The town has been on UNESCO's World Heritage tentative list since 1996, without being inscribed. Restored in the 1980s with French help, it also welcomes travellers in a community homestay set up in 2012.

Half a day is enough from Kathmandu or Bhaktapur, but a night lets you enjoy the evening, when the temple quarter comes alive, and set off on foot to Namo Buddha.

Don't miss

  • Indreshwar Mahadev temple and its courtyard.
  • The sacred confluence (Triveni Ghat) and Brahmayani temple.
  • A night with a local family in the community homestay.
  • The hike to Namo Buddha monastery.

Less good

  • Not much to do beyond half a day if you don't walk.
  • Irregular museum hours.
  • Last bus to Kathmandu around 5 or 6 pm.

In pictures

Panauti, its temples and its river
The tiered roofs of Indreshwar Mahadev
Namo Buddha monastery, at the end of the hike

What to see

The town itself is free. The Indreshwar Mahadev complex and the museum need a ticket (about 300 NPR (≈ €1.7) for a foreigner, 100 NPR (≈ €0.6) for a SAARC national), paid at the museum; no official fee is published.

The temple

Indreshwar Mahadev

≈ 300 NPR (≈ €1.7) (with the museum)

A three-tiered pagoda founded in 1294 over a Shiva lingam, in a large courtyard lined with small shrines. In the evening, around 6 pm, the quarter comes alive.

The confluence

Triveni Ghat and Brahmayani

free

Behind the temple, the confluence of the Roshi Khola and the Punyamati, with its ghats and, on the far bank, Brahmayani temple. Every twelve years, the Makar Mela draws pilgrims from all over the country.

Museum

Panauti Museum

included in the ticket

Inside the Indreshwar courtyard, a small museum of religious art, the only one in the district. Opening hours are irregular: it's best to come around midday.

Hike

To Namo Buddha

Three to four hours on foot (about ten kilometres) through hills and orchards to the stupa and monastery of Namo Buddha, then bus or walk on to Dhulikhel. The other way round, it continues the walk described under Nagarkot and Dhulikhel.

Planning your visit

Half a day

By bus from Kathmandu, or combined with Bhaktapur: the temple, the museum, the confluence and the old lanes, then back before the last bus.

One night

Stay in the homestay, enjoy the evening around the temple, and walk to Namo Buddha and Dhulikhel the next morning.

With Nagarkot and Dhulikhel

Panauti rounds off a two- or three-day loop: Nagarkot and Dhulikhel, Dhulikhel, Namo Buddha, Panauti. Walkers can start from Kathmandu on the Chisapani–Nagarkot trek.

Getting there

Bus from Kathmandu

Duration 1 hr 15 to 2 hrsPrice ≈ 60 to 80 NPR (≈ €0.3 to €0.5)

Direct buses from the Ratna Park bus park, about every 15 minutes, via Banepa to the Panauti terminus. Last bus back around 5 or 6 pm.

From Bhaktapur or Dhulikhel

Price ≈ 20 NPR (≈ €0.1) (Banepa–Panauti)

No direct bus: go to Banepa, then take a bus to Panauti.

Taxi

Price ≈ 2,500 NPR (≈ €14) one way (negotiated)

From Kathmandu; the inDrive and Pathao apps are often cheaper.

Getting around locally

On foot

The old town takes one to two hours to explore on foot.

Where to stay

Homestay

The Panauti community homestay, started in 2012 by Newar women, welcomes travellers in about fifteen houses, meals included (from about 22 USD (≈ €20) a night, cheaper when booked directly).

Hotels

A few simple hotels and guesthouses. Most visitors don't stay the night: evenings are quiet.

When to come

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All year round, except at the height of the monsoon (July-August). From October to February, the sky is clearest.

Festivals

Panauti Jatra (Jya Punhi)May-June (Jestha full moon) A week of celebrations; on the main day, the chariots of Bhadrakali, Indreshwar and Bhairab clash and people throw vermilion powder.
Makar MelaJanuary-February, every 12 years A great pilgrimage at the confluence; the last one was in 2022, the next is expected around 2034.

Dates follow the lunar calendar and change every year.

Good to know

Museum and tourist office: irregular hours, office closed on Saturdays.
Money: arrive with rupees, withdrawn in Kathmandu or Banepa. Withdrawing cash: the fees of every Nepali bank are compared on ATM Fees.

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